When I first saw Paul Nicklen’s Instagram post with rambunctious sea lions swirling around him in beautiful, clear, green water, it was hard to believe. Was it safe? Did they bite? “YES! They bite!” I thought to myself as one chomped on a diver. They raced around in packs chasing each other and acting like giant marauding aquatic puppies who were feeling extra wild. About 15 seconds into the video, I knew I was going to be diving with them too, no matter what it took. With a huge grin, and much excitement, my research began.
British Columbia appeared to be the place. Some more searching led me to the source. Apparently, the whole lot of these sea dogs reside in the Hornby Island Area. “GREAT!” I thought, I’ll just find a way to get there, get a dry suit, and I’ll be getting sea lion hugs in no time. My hopes were dashed though when I learned the critters are not there year-round. It’s a wintertime game for them as the herring come to spawn, and because it was early spring, I would have to wait.
As early winter came, I made the long drive in Ethel the camper van from The Grand Tetons to Hornby Island British Columbia. It was about 23 hours and included, a grizzly bear, three ferry rides, a camping trip with friends, a salmon run and an entire bottle of port. Quite a trip indeed. You can read more about the incredible salmon run HERE. But back to the sea lions.
I had booked a dive trip with Hornby Island Diving. They have an incredible operation. They feed you, have a constant supply of much needed coffee and hot cocoa, and run an extremely professional operation. They were nice enough to squeeze me in on a dive with some top notch (professional) photographers. David Ducheim to name just one. (He is who suggested to “Shoot black and white unless the color really adds to the photo and is the second photographer I follow on Instagram whom I’ve met in person!)
The first night was spent meeting all the fellow divers and enjoying a delicious dinner together. I was thrilled to learn from some of the photographers at the table and hear their experiences of diving with sea lions. Their advice was to be calm, because they will interact with you as much as you interact with them. Oh, and when they bite you, don’t pull away or you’ll tear your dry suit. I made a mental note they said, “when the bite you” as opposed to, “if the bite you.”
The next day after a delicious brekkie, I donned my toasty fleece onesie, zipped up my drysuit, and headed towards the boat. A short but chilly boat ride put us on the side of a large rock island which was so packed with sea lions, the whole shoreline appeared to be moving and barking. After a thorough pre-dive brief, we zipped up, checked each other’s gear and started hopping in. I had no idea what to expect. I had checked my camera settings many times, reviewed the pictures I’d hoped to get, and prayed to the photography gods. As I shuffled to the side of the boat, I figured all that was left was for me to take the plunge into the 46-degree water.
Once the bubbles cleared, I surface swam towards the island, and slowly descended to the bottom. On the way down, some sea lions approached me. They were curious, but cautious. Immediately, it seemed they viewed me as I viewed them; a little nervous! They didn’t know what to expect from this weird thing doing a poor job swimming in a red dry suit. Their caution put me at ease and the dive began. I settled on the rocky bottom, carefully avoiding the numerous spikey sea urchins, and stared around at the beauty of the whole scene. Sea Lions effortlessly raced around us, weaving between divers, taking gentle bites of those who weren’t paying attention. They were chasing each other, blowing bubbles, and spinning circles around cameras as the strobes lit up the surrounding waters. It was exactly what I had hoped for.
After a few moments of sitting still, the sea lions got comfortable with me, really comfortable. They would race up to me, whiz by, and then spiral back for a closer look. Sometimes you’d look down and see them biting your fins, or your leg. And sometimes, you’d see a cute little sea dog come up to you show you their whole impressive set of toofers.
Their energy was limitless. Their incredible charisma radiated through the chilly water, and I was smiling so hard, it was difficult to keep my regulator in my mouth.
Diving with sea lions is the highlight of my traveling for 2018. It was a much researched and anticipated trip, and well worth the wait. I will be back for the upcoming season for sure.
While diving with these intelligent and gentle creatures, it made me understand just how important it is for us to protect and preserve the homes of these animals.
It has been said a million times, but it is worth saying again. Doing small things like minimizing plastics can do a world of good for these critters. When you meet them up close and feel the energy, you realize just how worthy of care and protection these animals are.
“Shoot black and white unless the color really adds to the photo”
